_Rock ‘n’ roll jewellery designer to the stars, talks inspiration, architecture and life lessons

Stephen Webster, one of the world’s best- loved jewellery designers, has crafted pieces that have been worn by the likes of Elizabeth Taylor and been made famous by Madonna. In a career that has taken him around the world and back to London, Stephen Webster has created a truly international brand. Here, the master jeweller tells International View about the influences and experiences that have shaped his view.

May 02, 2017

Where do you find inspiration?

My biggest influence has always been the ocean but I’m also inspired by literature, visual experiences, music and art to create collections and one-of-a-kind pieces.

How do you inject your personal style into the design of your homes?

I am a passionate collector; my homes are cabinets of curiosity. My favourites are glass fish – manufactured in the Czech Republic in the ‘50s and ‘60s – taxidermy and artwork. My first piece was a leather back turtle 20 years ago – we’ve even named him Bolshoi.

Architecture: are you a traditionalist or a modernist?

I’m lucky that I get to see many architectural styles on my travels. Museums, art galleries and airports are today’s cathedrals. I’m bored by the endless city vanity projects by the same few architects. I do, however, like the way modern buildings knit with historic buildings without completely overpowering them. The central London skyline takes some beating.

If you could live anywhere, where would it be?

Miami – it has changed so much in the last five years. We have a home in this vibrant city and we try and visit whenever we can. The Jorge Perez art museum there is one of my favourites; often with unexpected exhibits.

What do you take with you when travelling?

My current carry-on is a leather holdall from John Varvatos. It’s wearing nicely and has plenty of places for pencils and the odd banana. I always travel with my iPad, parfum by Roja Dove, my Parmigiani watch, mints and a loupe; whether I’m inspecting a piece of my jewellery or studying a gem to buy, I need 10x magnification.

Favourite record?

Young Americans by David Bowie. I bought this album the day I got accepted into art school in 1976. Our Lady Stardust collection is a diamond set inspired by my musical hero. Interpreting a character without being clichéd can be challenging but I feel that Lady Stardust really represents the image of Bowie performing Starman.

Favourite book?

I love PG Wodehouse – reading his books, you learn a lot about us Brits. I often reference literature as a starting point for a single piece or collection of jewellery; in fact my favourite childhood book Twenty Thousand Leagues Under The Sea inspired our iconic fine jewellery collection ‘Jewels Verne’.

What is your favourite piece?

Part of our DNA is the ‘Crystal Haze’ concept I developed nearly 20 years ago. These are doublets, meaning a double layer of stones. The lower layer is always cut from an opaque gem such as turquoise to provide the colour and the upper layer is translucent quartz for the effect and volume. The result is like an illumination, the light passes through the facets of the quartz, bounces about inside the stone and reflects the colour back out to the eye. It’s physics but it’s like magic – it put us on the map.

What is the best piece of advice you have been given?

I’ve had plenty of good advice over the years; it’s the worst that really sticks out. My careers teacher at school advised me to take an apprenticeship at the local dockyard as a draftsman. Luckily I didn’t listen and instead enrolled at art school to study fashion design. By chance I walked into the jewellery design class and the flames, noise, chemicals and shiny objects were instantly more appealing than fashion. I became completely obsessed with the techniques of making jewellery. It was like a love affair.